At the Pole Creek Springs Trailhead, standing at an elevation of about 5,000 feet at the termination of Forest Road 15, near McKenzie Pass Road and roughly 12 miles distant from the town of Sisters in Oregon, Doug Adair and a companion made their rendezvous. Their arrival, shrouded in darkness, was timed to ensure a pre-dawn commencement of their journey. They opted to camp at the trailhead, basking in the anticipation of favorable weather conditions.
The Journey Begins
The journey they were about to embark on, as per the insights gleaned from Doug’s topographical software, promised a shorter route by 2-3 miles round trip when compared to the West Side route originating from the Obsidian Trail. With the break of dawn, they were on their feet by six and trekking by seven, following the established path toward Chambers/Camp Lakes for the initial three miles. A distinct switchback, encountered a mile past the junction with the main Green Lakes Trail, served as their cue to veer slightly northwest, directing their steps toward an ancient volcano.
Navigating Without Cairns
The absence of a cairn to denote a climbers’ trail had been a slight disappointment, yet the passage through pine forests and clearings proved less challenging than anticipated, leading them to a natural incline that ushered them directly onto the southeastern ridge of the North Sister.
Ascending the Southeastern Ridge
Navigating the Southeastern Ridge proved to be a delicate balance between intuition and careful decision-making for Doug and his climbing partner. This ridge, marked by its faint and often elusive trail, presented a series of challenges that required both strategy and patience. Here are the steps they took to ensure a successful passage:
- Identify the Path: The climbers were constantly on the lookout for signs of a trail, however faint. This often meant pausing to survey their surroundings and choose the most viable route forward;
- Choose the Best Side for Maneuvering: Generally, they found the southern side of the ridge (left when facing uphill) offered a more manageable ascent. This decision was based on the terrain’s configuration, which seemed less treacherous and offered more solid footing;
- Navigate Around Obstructions: When confronted with large boulders or steep drops, they had to make quick decisions. Sometimes, this meant deviating to the right side of the ridge or even taking a direct route over the ridge’s crest, despite the additional effort required;
- Decide When to Descend: Certain sections of the ridge were so obstructed that the most sensible option was to descend slightly and find a safer route around the obstacle, before continuing the ascent;
- Tread Carefully on Loose Scree: The ridge was littered with loose scree, making every step a potential trigger for a rockslide. They moved with deliberate caution, placing their feet carefully to avoid dislodging rocks;
- Use Teamwork: Communication between Doug and his partner was key. They frequently discussed options and chose their route collaboratively, ensuring both were comfortable with the plan;
- Stay Alert and Adaptable: The unpredictable nature of the terrain meant plans could change at a moment’s notice. Staying alert to the conditions and being adaptable in their approach was crucial for their progress.
This part of the climb underscored the unpredictable challenges of mountain ascents, where a climber’s ability to adapt, communicate, and persevere is just as important as their physical stamina. Despite the inherent risks, Doug and his partner found this segment of their adventure to be a rewarding test of their climbing acumen, as they navigated the ridge’s obstacles with a combination of caution and boldness.
Majestic Views and Geological Wonders
As they ascended, breathtaking vistas of the Middle Sister, with its elevation of 10,047 feet, the crevasse-laden Hayden Glacier, the South Sister standing tall at 10,358 feet with the Prouty Glacier in view, and the relatively modest Thayer Glacier on the east side of the North Sister with its stunning terminus lake, graced their journey.
The Summit Approach
Nearing 9,200 feet, the climbers merged with the route leading up the South Ridge, noting an improvement in the trail’s distinctness and navigability. Guided by Jeff Thomas’s “Oregon High,” they adeptly skirted around three gendarmes, with the Prouty Pinnacle drawing near, prompting contemplations of the forthcoming ascent. The journey past a prominent rock buttress on steep scree was marked as perilous by Smoot, though the conditions seemed to belie such warnings.
Conquering the North Sister
From the southeastern ridge, the pair admired the view towards the Hayden Glacier and the lesser or Little Sister, before conquering the summit through a traverse beneath the pinnacle and an ascent up the right side of the Bowling Alley. The established rappel setup above the south side offered a safe descent, though they chose to downclimb instead.
The Summit Triumph
Reaching the summit, Doug and his companion first set foot on the South Horn, before navigating class 3 terrain to Prouty Peak, the fourth highest peak in Oregon at 10,085 feet, then glimpsing the lower Glisan Peak. The expedition from trailhead to summit spanned roughly six hours, marking them as the second group to arrive that day.
A Dedication and Reflection
The North Sister stands as a silent guardian over Oregon’s landscape, its summit a lesser-trodden point due to the challenges it presents. This mountain, first conquered by H. H. Prouty alongside the Mazama group in 1910, commands respect for its demanding ascent, setting it apart from its more frequently visited siblings. As Doug and his partner made their ascent, they became part of a select group who have experienced the unique thrill and solitude this peak offers. Observing activity on the Little Sister and noting the popularity of the South Sister served to highlight the contrast in their chosen path. The North Sister’s geological history, marked by an eruption roughly 100,000 years ago, adds a layer of intrigue to the climb, providing a tangible connection to the earth’s ancient past. The duo’s journey was not just a physical endeavor but a voyage through time, offering perspectives on both the natural world and human endurance. Their experience on this lesser-known giant of the Oregon Cascades underscored the beauty of pursuing challenges that lie off the beaten path, revealing landscapes and views that few have the privilege to see.
The Journey Down and Remembrance
Their descent mirrored the ascent path but proved less arduous, allowing for a quicker pace. The descent included a direct 800-foot scree slide before rejoining the trail, where they stumbled upon a patch of ice, humorously dubbing the climb “mixed” alpine and providing a refreshing pause for cold water.
Bathed in the near-seventy-degree summit weather, their 11-hour journey encompassed a vertical gain of about 5,800 feet. Doug, in a gesture of remembrance, dedicated this climb to his late brother Jim Adair, a remarkable climber from Connecticut, honoring his memory through this challenging yet rewarding endeavor.